How to Buy A Puppy.......And Not Get Shouted At!
_ It pains me to have to write a section like this in the website, but past & current experience tells me that with every litter we breed, we will have four of five potential buyers who end up getting sent away with a flea in their ear, because quite frankly, they just don’t know how to buy a puppy.
I want your experience of having one of our puppies to be a significant milestone in your life; I want it to be as easy and friendly as possible, with all parties walking away with a warm positive feeling. I want you to feel that you can come back to me for advice, possibly some training and maybe another dog, when you feel that you are ready for one.
In order to do that, you need to do some basic groundwork.
Buying a new pup is both a rational and an emotional decision. You tend to start out planning with your head and end up buying with your heart, which is all well and good, as long as the rational part has been done first.
Meeting a breeder for the first time is a little like going on a first date; I want my puppies to go to the best possible homes. I would rather keep them all, than see them go to unsuitable homes. The best home doesn’t always mean the biggest house or the poshest people. “Best” in this case means a home where the dog will be loved, cared for and integrated in to the home, either as a working dog or as a pet.
So, if you want one of my pups you need to impress me. Conversely I also need to impress you. In the first contact and first face to face meeting, chances are we assessing each other to see if we meet each others’ expectations. Hopefully we do and things can progress.
So how do you impress me? There are myriad of things that I look for in a suitable client, but here are the main ones;
Do your research . Show me that you either have first-hand experience of the breed or failing that you have done your homework. I’m not looking for experts, but I need to know that you understand the basic requirements of working cockers and have an interest in where they have come from and what they are used for. If you are a working home tell me- you get lots of brownie points for this. If you are not a working home, don’t despair, but you are going to need to tell me why you want an active working breed as a pet.
Convince me that this is the breed you really want. “I’m not sure if I really want a Working Cocker, a Labrador or a Springer” is never a good opening gambit when you meet a potential buyer for the first time, and you would be surprised how many times it happens. I fully realise that taking on a new dog is a massive decision and one that starts with “what sort of dog shall we have.” I am more than happy to talk to you about the breed and discuss if it is suitable for your requirements. Working Cockers are my passion; I never get tired of talking about them, so use my experience to your advantage in making your decision. It’s not about selling puppies, it’s about helping people to get the absolutely right dog for them; and if that’s a Lab, then I’m happy to be able help you make that decision and point you in the direction of some good breeders. This isn’t a conversation however to be having when you meet the breeder for the first time, get it out in the open as early as possible. When you meet the breeder for a puppy viewing, you need to be absolutely sure that this is the breed for you.
Try not to be too influenced by colour. I know it is impossibly difficult not to have a preconceived idea of the colour of the pup that you want, but try to not let it be the over-riding factor; temperament, particularly where a pup is going into an environment with children, is far more important. We will do our upmost to try to match your needs, including colour, but we can only sell what we have.
“I want a chocolate cocker because it matches my sofa!” will indeed lead to you being shouted at! This is a completely true story by the way, which happened to us a couple of years ago.
First impressions are important . Traditionally first contact with a breeder was always by phone and in many ways this is still the best way. Whilst I am a dyed in the wool traditionalist, I’m not a Luddite; email is fine. Text messages however are not acceptable as a method of first making contact.
If you are going to email me about the availability of puppies, try to tell me a little about yourself and why you want a working cocker; context and detail always helps.
Succinct emails such as “Ere mate have you got any pups for sale?” guarantees you get put straight in the bin!
Don’t be surprised if I don’t give you my address when we first speak . It is a horrible reality, but there are people out there who only contact breeders in order to ascertain as much about them as possible, before robbing them! Nearly every day you hear new stories of gundogs and puppies being stolen. So it is no wonder that breeders are a bit cagey about giving out details of their addresses to complete strangers.
Sometimes I will ask you for more details . .... such as your contact details and a bit more about your personal circumstances. Don’t be alarmed, this is a good thing. It’s not that I am nosey; it means that I am sufficiently interested in you to offer you a viewing. All our clients are vetted before they come to see the pups. We do this because we want our puppies to go to absolutely the best homes possible. Quite simply, if you don’t give me enough details, you won’t be seeing the pups.
Be punctual . When we show puppies for the first time at 5 weeks old, we normally do this over a weekend. We can have as many as 6 or 7 viewings over that time, and I want each one to be special for each buyer. I want no one to feel rushed, and everyone to have enough time to spend with the pups and us, so they feel that all possibilities have been explored. We do our upmost to ensure you have loads of time with us. In return, we ask you are punctual for an appointment; not early, not late, just on time.
If circumstances change keep us informed as soon as possible. I realise that things can change quite rapidly when you are buying a pup. You may have arranged to view the pups, but then find the ideal pup from another buyer, before you have had chance to visit us. This isn’t a problem. I like it when clients look at other breeders – it shows commitment and diligence. I’m delighted that you have found your ideal puppy, just let us know that you won’t be coming as far in advance as possible and the reason why. Phoning, or more usually emailing me the night (or a couple of hours) before a viewing, when you think I have gone to bed, is a sure fire way to really piss me off.
Don’t view more than one litter on the same day . I know it is tempting to make the whole puppy buying business an adventure and a road trip; but it is the height of bad manners to go from one litter to the next without changing clothes and sterilising hands. Breeders do their upmost to minimise disease, please help us to maintain bio-security by only visiting one breeder per day.
We don’t sell puppies as presents or as children’s pets. If you want to buy a puppy as a surprise for someone, you have come to the wrong breeder. If you want one of our pups, everyone who will be involved with the dog needs to be completely on board with the decision to bring a pup into the home. By the same token, we don’t sell pups as children’s pets. We love the kids to come and get involved at the viewing stage, but please be rational about the reason you are buying a dog. Children’s initial enthusiasm invariably wanes and it will be you as an adult, who will have responsibility for the health and welfare of the pup. If you are buying a family pet, that’s perfectly fine. A pet for the kids? Not from us I’m afraid.
I will not sell you two puppies from the same litter . Litter mates bond with each other, not with you. Unless you are very experienced trainer, two same-age pups will be a complete nightmare.
If you don’t like what you see, please tell me . Whilst I hope that we do out upmost to breed the best possible Working Cockers puppies, you may decide they are not for you once you have seen them. They may be too small, too big.....This is not a problem for me. I would much rather you told me honestly that our pups don’t meet your requirement rather than saying “we’ll have to think about it” and then we never hear from you again. You are not going to hurt my feelings.... I breed for the conformation and temperament that I like. If you happen to like them as well... that’s fantastic. If you don’t, maybe I can point you in the direction of a breeder who is breeding something a bit closer to your requirements.
Cash is king . Dogs are my business and my livelihood. LongSword Working Cockers is a completely legitimate business, with all our accounts submitted to the Tax man. Never the less, we prefer cash as a form of payment in preference to cheques, and certainly not credit cards. Call me old fashioned, but I think there is something distasteful about buying a puppy on a credit card.
In terms of paying a deposit to secure a puppy, cheques are fine. However, when it comes to paying the balance on the day of picking up the pup, cash is what we like. We are happy to accept a cheque for the balance, providing you can send it to us and it has cleared through our bank prior, to the agreed collection date. We provide invoices for all transactions.
I’m happy to work around your availability when it comes to picking up the pup . Our pups go to their new homes absolutely no earlier than 8 weeks old. This means that they will have had 3 weeks separation from their mother and will be fully weaned. However, we realise that this isn’t always convenient and we are happy to keep the pup for an extra week or so if it is easier for you. Please try to pick the pup up as close to 8 weeks as possible. You are missing out on irreplaceable socialisation time if you leave it later. The longer the pup stays with me, the more it will bond with me and not you! Pups absolutely need to be picked up by week 10. We will only keep pups longer than this in extraordinary circumstances.
OK I seem to have rattled on at length about what I expect from you; what should you expect from me.
A good breeder should be open, honest and contactable. Whilst we are talking about selling pups, really our business is about relationships. You need to have a good relationship with the breeder. You need to be able to talk openly, trust them implicitly and be able to have a dialogue that doesn’t stop the moment you have handed over your cash.
A good breeder will offer you advice about the breed irrespective of if they have any puppies to sell. They will be willing to spend time with you, answer your questions and address any concerns that you may have.
A good breeder is likely to be registered with the Kennel Club, but not always. In the same way Kennel Club accredited breeders meet a minimum welfare standard, but may not always be the best breeder out there.
A good breeder will encourage you to look at other litters. All breeders do things slightly differently and have a different ethos. Only by talking to and visiting a range, will you really find one that you like.
A good breeder will be able to talk to you about the genetic health of the breed. They will be able to tell you about any genetic diseases that are prevalent in the breed, any health tests that should be undertaken and be happy to show you any health certification for their breeding stock. This is particularly important if you are considering a cross-breed. Many people assume that crosses are naturally genetically healthier than pure line dogs; this is not always the case!
It goes without saying that you should be able to see the Dam and pups in their breeding environment. Accept absolutely nothing less. Accept no excuses such as the bitch is ill, she has been run over, she is away at the moment.....walk away now.
You should be able to see the kennels and meet the breeders other dogs. The breeder should be able to arrange for you to see the Sire, if they do not own them (a bit of advanced warning helps here). If a breeder wants to meet you away from their kennels, such as in a pub or Service Station car park; walk away. There is only one reason that a breeder will not invite you to their home- that is they are doing something they do not want you to see.
A puppy cannot be too fat or too outgoing. Never buy thin, unhappy looking puppies.
Kennels and whelping facilities should be clean and hygienic. If a breeder cannot be bothered to tart up his kennels for a viewing, god knows what conditions the dogs are kept in when no one is looking. Again walk away.
A good breeder will give you support after they have sold you the puppy. This should be written (in the form of a puppy pack) as well as verbal.
If there is any niggling doubt in your mind, even if you cannot put your finger on it..... Walk away.
Hopefully it goes without saying, but don’t ever consider buying a puppy from a pet shop or directly over the internet; if you do so you are supporting puppy farming.
I want to sell you a puppy, but I have absolutely no qualms about saying no. The more you can do to convince me that you are suitable, the easier it is to say yes!
I want your experience of having one of our puppies to be a significant milestone in your life; I want it to be as easy and friendly as possible, with all parties walking away with a warm positive feeling. I want you to feel that you can come back to me for advice, possibly some training and maybe another dog, when you feel that you are ready for one.
In order to do that, you need to do some basic groundwork.
Buying a new pup is both a rational and an emotional decision. You tend to start out planning with your head and end up buying with your heart, which is all well and good, as long as the rational part has been done first.
Meeting a breeder for the first time is a little like going on a first date; I want my puppies to go to the best possible homes. I would rather keep them all, than see them go to unsuitable homes. The best home doesn’t always mean the biggest house or the poshest people. “Best” in this case means a home where the dog will be loved, cared for and integrated in to the home, either as a working dog or as a pet.
So, if you want one of my pups you need to impress me. Conversely I also need to impress you. In the first contact and first face to face meeting, chances are we assessing each other to see if we meet each others’ expectations. Hopefully we do and things can progress.
So how do you impress me? There are myriad of things that I look for in a suitable client, but here are the main ones;
Do your research . Show me that you either have first-hand experience of the breed or failing that you have done your homework. I’m not looking for experts, but I need to know that you understand the basic requirements of working cockers and have an interest in where they have come from and what they are used for. If you are a working home tell me- you get lots of brownie points for this. If you are not a working home, don’t despair, but you are going to need to tell me why you want an active working breed as a pet.
Convince me that this is the breed you really want. “I’m not sure if I really want a Working Cocker, a Labrador or a Springer” is never a good opening gambit when you meet a potential buyer for the first time, and you would be surprised how many times it happens. I fully realise that taking on a new dog is a massive decision and one that starts with “what sort of dog shall we have.” I am more than happy to talk to you about the breed and discuss if it is suitable for your requirements. Working Cockers are my passion; I never get tired of talking about them, so use my experience to your advantage in making your decision. It’s not about selling puppies, it’s about helping people to get the absolutely right dog for them; and if that’s a Lab, then I’m happy to be able help you make that decision and point you in the direction of some good breeders. This isn’t a conversation however to be having when you meet the breeder for the first time, get it out in the open as early as possible. When you meet the breeder for a puppy viewing, you need to be absolutely sure that this is the breed for you.
Try not to be too influenced by colour. I know it is impossibly difficult not to have a preconceived idea of the colour of the pup that you want, but try to not let it be the over-riding factor; temperament, particularly where a pup is going into an environment with children, is far more important. We will do our upmost to try to match your needs, including colour, but we can only sell what we have.
“I want a chocolate cocker because it matches my sofa!” will indeed lead to you being shouted at! This is a completely true story by the way, which happened to us a couple of years ago.
First impressions are important . Traditionally first contact with a breeder was always by phone and in many ways this is still the best way. Whilst I am a dyed in the wool traditionalist, I’m not a Luddite; email is fine. Text messages however are not acceptable as a method of first making contact.
If you are going to email me about the availability of puppies, try to tell me a little about yourself and why you want a working cocker; context and detail always helps.
Succinct emails such as “Ere mate have you got any pups for sale?” guarantees you get put straight in the bin!
Don’t be surprised if I don’t give you my address when we first speak . It is a horrible reality, but there are people out there who only contact breeders in order to ascertain as much about them as possible, before robbing them! Nearly every day you hear new stories of gundogs and puppies being stolen. So it is no wonder that breeders are a bit cagey about giving out details of their addresses to complete strangers.
Sometimes I will ask you for more details . .... such as your contact details and a bit more about your personal circumstances. Don’t be alarmed, this is a good thing. It’s not that I am nosey; it means that I am sufficiently interested in you to offer you a viewing. All our clients are vetted before they come to see the pups. We do this because we want our puppies to go to absolutely the best homes possible. Quite simply, if you don’t give me enough details, you won’t be seeing the pups.
Be punctual . When we show puppies for the first time at 5 weeks old, we normally do this over a weekend. We can have as many as 6 or 7 viewings over that time, and I want each one to be special for each buyer. I want no one to feel rushed, and everyone to have enough time to spend with the pups and us, so they feel that all possibilities have been explored. We do our upmost to ensure you have loads of time with us. In return, we ask you are punctual for an appointment; not early, not late, just on time.
If circumstances change keep us informed as soon as possible. I realise that things can change quite rapidly when you are buying a pup. You may have arranged to view the pups, but then find the ideal pup from another buyer, before you have had chance to visit us. This isn’t a problem. I like it when clients look at other breeders – it shows commitment and diligence. I’m delighted that you have found your ideal puppy, just let us know that you won’t be coming as far in advance as possible and the reason why. Phoning, or more usually emailing me the night (or a couple of hours) before a viewing, when you think I have gone to bed, is a sure fire way to really piss me off.
Don’t view more than one litter on the same day . I know it is tempting to make the whole puppy buying business an adventure and a road trip; but it is the height of bad manners to go from one litter to the next without changing clothes and sterilising hands. Breeders do their upmost to minimise disease, please help us to maintain bio-security by only visiting one breeder per day.
We don’t sell puppies as presents or as children’s pets. If you want to buy a puppy as a surprise for someone, you have come to the wrong breeder. If you want one of our pups, everyone who will be involved with the dog needs to be completely on board with the decision to bring a pup into the home. By the same token, we don’t sell pups as children’s pets. We love the kids to come and get involved at the viewing stage, but please be rational about the reason you are buying a dog. Children’s initial enthusiasm invariably wanes and it will be you as an adult, who will have responsibility for the health and welfare of the pup. If you are buying a family pet, that’s perfectly fine. A pet for the kids? Not from us I’m afraid.
I will not sell you two puppies from the same litter . Litter mates bond with each other, not with you. Unless you are very experienced trainer, two same-age pups will be a complete nightmare.
If you don’t like what you see, please tell me . Whilst I hope that we do out upmost to breed the best possible Working Cockers puppies, you may decide they are not for you once you have seen them. They may be too small, too big.....This is not a problem for me. I would much rather you told me honestly that our pups don’t meet your requirement rather than saying “we’ll have to think about it” and then we never hear from you again. You are not going to hurt my feelings.... I breed for the conformation and temperament that I like. If you happen to like them as well... that’s fantastic. If you don’t, maybe I can point you in the direction of a breeder who is breeding something a bit closer to your requirements.
Cash is king . Dogs are my business and my livelihood. LongSword Working Cockers is a completely legitimate business, with all our accounts submitted to the Tax man. Never the less, we prefer cash as a form of payment in preference to cheques, and certainly not credit cards. Call me old fashioned, but I think there is something distasteful about buying a puppy on a credit card.
In terms of paying a deposit to secure a puppy, cheques are fine. However, when it comes to paying the balance on the day of picking up the pup, cash is what we like. We are happy to accept a cheque for the balance, providing you can send it to us and it has cleared through our bank prior, to the agreed collection date. We provide invoices for all transactions.
I’m happy to work around your availability when it comes to picking up the pup . Our pups go to their new homes absolutely no earlier than 8 weeks old. This means that they will have had 3 weeks separation from their mother and will be fully weaned. However, we realise that this isn’t always convenient and we are happy to keep the pup for an extra week or so if it is easier for you. Please try to pick the pup up as close to 8 weeks as possible. You are missing out on irreplaceable socialisation time if you leave it later. The longer the pup stays with me, the more it will bond with me and not you! Pups absolutely need to be picked up by week 10. We will only keep pups longer than this in extraordinary circumstances.
OK I seem to have rattled on at length about what I expect from you; what should you expect from me.
A good breeder should be open, honest and contactable. Whilst we are talking about selling pups, really our business is about relationships. You need to have a good relationship with the breeder. You need to be able to talk openly, trust them implicitly and be able to have a dialogue that doesn’t stop the moment you have handed over your cash.
A good breeder will offer you advice about the breed irrespective of if they have any puppies to sell. They will be willing to spend time with you, answer your questions and address any concerns that you may have.
A good breeder is likely to be registered with the Kennel Club, but not always. In the same way Kennel Club accredited breeders meet a minimum welfare standard, but may not always be the best breeder out there.
A good breeder will encourage you to look at other litters. All breeders do things slightly differently and have a different ethos. Only by talking to and visiting a range, will you really find one that you like.
A good breeder will be able to talk to you about the genetic health of the breed. They will be able to tell you about any genetic diseases that are prevalent in the breed, any health tests that should be undertaken and be happy to show you any health certification for their breeding stock. This is particularly important if you are considering a cross-breed. Many people assume that crosses are naturally genetically healthier than pure line dogs; this is not always the case!
It goes without saying that you should be able to see the Dam and pups in their breeding environment. Accept absolutely nothing less. Accept no excuses such as the bitch is ill, she has been run over, she is away at the moment.....walk away now.
You should be able to see the kennels and meet the breeders other dogs. The breeder should be able to arrange for you to see the Sire, if they do not own them (a bit of advanced warning helps here). If a breeder wants to meet you away from their kennels, such as in a pub or Service Station car park; walk away. There is only one reason that a breeder will not invite you to their home- that is they are doing something they do not want you to see.
A puppy cannot be too fat or too outgoing. Never buy thin, unhappy looking puppies.
Kennels and whelping facilities should be clean and hygienic. If a breeder cannot be bothered to tart up his kennels for a viewing, god knows what conditions the dogs are kept in when no one is looking. Again walk away.
A good breeder will give you support after they have sold you the puppy. This should be written (in the form of a puppy pack) as well as verbal.
If there is any niggling doubt in your mind, even if you cannot put your finger on it..... Walk away.
Hopefully it goes without saying, but don’t ever consider buying a puppy from a pet shop or directly over the internet; if you do so you are supporting puppy farming.
I want to sell you a puppy, but I have absolutely no qualms about saying no. The more you can do to convince me that you are suitable, the easier it is to say yes!